On the surface, Fes seems to embody Morocco's past, with its ninth-century mosques and car-free streets. But behind the shutters, exciting changes are taking place
For more than a decade, Marrakesh has been the Moroccan destination on everyone’s list, with its ever-more-luxurious hotels and attainable whiff of the exotic. Fes, about 240 miles northeast of Marrakesh, was often an afterthought. Those who went there raved about the UNESCO World Heritage medieval medina—still totally inaccessible to cars, still genuinely Moroccan. But with few upscale places to stay, conservative Fez was never more than a quick stopover.
It is an ancient and noble city, established in a.d. 789 by Idriss I,...